Last views of Lisbon – Waving Tchau to a splendid city

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The last day we were about to spend in Lisbon was bound to be the onset of a rough couple of days in our itinerary. For starters we should find a place to leave our baggage for the day, as we were leaving Lisbon in an evening train to Madrid. Once there, on the following morning, we should also try to find somewhere to place our belongings as we were boarding on the evening flight to Marrakesh. That meant that we would not be sleeping on a bed for these couple of days and we should really save on our stamina and good mood.

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The day started a bit disappointingly, as our favorite bakery, Popolo cafe was closed since it was Sunday. We moved to the nearby Time out market, which was stuffed with choices for snacks and coffee and after a small stroll inside the building, where to our surprise we discovered a rather vibrant stamp collectors’ market (as vibrant as stamp collection can be that is), we started our day with a refreshing cold coffee.

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Our goal for the day was to simply visit the Belem district and we got positioned on the back of a big line of people that waited to get a ticket from the vending machines. I kept cursing myself for not responding positive to Catherine’s suggestion to buy those damned tickets last evening, when we returned to the very same spot from Cascais. The train station seemed crowded with people that were about to take advantage of the proximity of Lisbon to some fine beaches that were easily approachable by public transport.

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Our sort journey came to an end near the Padrão dos Descobrimentos, the monument of discoveries, a construction that commemorates the golden age of Portuguese explorations around the globe. It was built in the middle of the previous century and it stands on the river bank in front of the massive Jeronimo’s monastery. It resembles a ship and its sides are ornamented by several figures depicting warriors, priests, cartographers and so forth, while on its front side the figure of Prince Henry the Navigator, patron of Portuguese exploration, gazes at the endless horizon.

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The place was much more crowded than we had expected, but we lingered around for a while, taking advantage of a food stand that served some delicious sandwiches, which we savored sited by the river bank, keeping an eye for the ever begging seagulls that roam these place.

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We carried on with our walk towards Belem tower, a military structure built in the 16th century to guard the city. It was once situated in the middle of Rio Tejo, but it is said the great earthquake of Lisbon changed the river course and the tower found itself near the shore (not true though, the shoreline extended gradually towards the small island where the tower was built). A beautiful park adds much to the site’s charm and as every place we visited this one was also crowded. We bought some refreshments once more and sat on a bench watching some guys playing football. One of the things I always regret on these journeys is that it’s never a good time to join other people playing football whenever I find them, so I decided to try and take some pictures of the game that was taking place in front of a 16th century monument instead.

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The tower itself is quite alluring and it was a joy to visit this site. The white limestone blends harmonically with the colors of the river contributing to a lovely sight. This was probably the last image of home for many sailors and settlers of Portuguese origin, as they were leaving Europe to make a fortune in lands unknown to them. We left this place not being very decisive on what to do during our last hours in the city. Our belongings would be carefully stored in our hostel for the next couple of hours and it was already lunch time. We walked back to the train station, after taking some time for souvenirs and we were back at Cais do sodre.

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Since we had already experienced the place and found it to our liking, we made a stop there for a snack and something to drink. I was a bit reluctant to order any alcohol, but the vibe was so cheerful and we were having such a great time, I decided to get a beer. Later, some girls showed up, setting up some sort of hen party and that put more wood on the cheerful vibe fire. Therefor we stayed for a while longer, but it was about time to go and pick our stuff.

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Our train would be leaving Lisbon in a couple of hours after we got to Oriente train station, so there was lots of time and a few things to do. We had something to eat at a subway, lingered around the place for a while, spend some time at a bookstore, shop some snacks and water from a supermarket to get by through the journey. The place is designed by Calatrava though and we could easily discern the resemblance to the Olympic stadium in Athens, a design by the same architect.

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The wannabe gangsta crew

After enduring several blows of boredom, we walked up to our platform where we waited patiently, only to be informed a few minutes before departure, that our train was awaiting for us on another platform. I have never seen so many people running to catch a train, but eventually we boarded minutes before the train left the station and we tried to find our seats. That’s when the fun started.

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Our seats were occupied by some guys that seemed like a caricature of a Ghetto gang. There were three of them. I’ll call them Leader, Pugnacious D and Fan boy slim. All three of them were listening to hip-hop and they were speaking a mixture of Portuguese and English. Leader seemed to be in a better mental state than the others, he asked us if we wanted them to leave our seats and they all politely got up and sat somewhere else. Leader sat in the front, trying to establish connection with a girl they were all talking about in a rather lewd manner but after a few flattering remarks towards her he got asleep! Fan boy slim was a simple follower, he didn’t do or say much, but Pugnacious D was a loud mouth. He kept making obscene remarks towards the other passengers in general (addressing girls mostly) and he occasionally enjoyed a sip from a whiskey bottle all three of them shared. An old lady tried to protest to all this annoyance but Pugnie D shushed her and she was quick to look the other way terrified.

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After a while as he tried to say something to the Leader he accidentally annoyed the passenger seated in front of him, who protested furiously and Pugnacious D reacted by continuously annoying him, but avoiding touching the guy. Eventually the train conductor came to check everyone’s tickets and he found out that the “gang” was lacking both tickets and bravery. However, Leader woke up and pleaded with the conductor not to throw them out, as most of the passengers turned against the poor gangsta crew. The old lady in particular was furiously arguing with the conductor that he should get rid of them.

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That put the crew in a defensive position for a while, but some time after the conductor left they started getting annoying again, shouting profanities and trying to dance to some sort of hip hop rhythm that could be barely heard through a small transistor’s speaker. All this dancing became more intense after a few moments. Soon we all understood the reason for this vivid display of their dancing moves. They had reached their destination, so no harm could be inflicted upon them. They hastily left the train and once outside they started shouting. We were amused but we were left inside a train that had its A/C set to North Pole mode and we were about 8 hours away from our destination.

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Standing on the end of the world – Day trip to Sintra and the Atlantic coast

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…in my heart I was still carrying my grievance for not visiting that beach, while in my hands I was holding a lame conversion tool to a Christian heresy. The latter, I got rid of at a litter bin in Cascais. The former remains to this day.

Although we hadn’t yet accomplished our goal of experiencing Lisbon to the fullest way possible, we had decided that the next day we would visit Sintra and Cabo da Roca and maybe swim in the Ocean. Needless to point out that this was a very demanding task and sacrifices had to be made, let alone we couldn’t make these choices lightheartedly, so everything had to be decided on the spot. I have to say that we started our day too in too laid-back a manner , considering the efforts we had to make to correspond to such a heavy itinerary. Therefor we visited a small bakery that we noticed that had lots of local folks as clients and ordered our usual cup of frozen espresso, some sandwiches and pasteis de nata.

Curious to check out what sights we initially intended to visit around Sintra and the Atlantic coast? Well, be puzzled no more! Check our primary plans here.

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I must also point out that the Portuguese expression for breakfast (cafe da manha) pictures in the most perfect way my idea of breakfast. Morning coffee. Plain. Simple. Nothing else. Consequently, after enjoying this tasty breakfast, we walked to the nearby metro once more to reach Rossio train station, where we would board a train for the 45 minute ride to Sintra. Some tough decisions had to be made aboard that train but we limited our choice of sights to a couple. While in Sintra we would either visit Pena palace or Quinta da Regaleira.

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There are many sites to visit near this lovely town but when time is short harsh decisions have to be made. Pena palace is probably the most renown place in the area, yet we opted to visit Quinta da Regaleira, as we were drawn to it by the strange nature of the place, as the man who conceived the idea for this architectural delight, Carvalho Monteiro tried to create a place that would reflect his interest in alchemy and the occult. The man who would undertake the task to fulfill that goal at the beginning of the 2oth century, was the Italian architect Luigi Manini, who designed many buildings in Portugal at the time. In order to get there we walked through the town encountering many pieces of street art along the way and even more vendors that were spreading their merchandise on the pavement. We took advantage of the chance for some shopping before reaching our destination.

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The place is quite extended as it is actually a vast park on a hillside. The three floor high palace is the main building and it is built in Gothic style. There’s also a chapel, but the most bizarre sight is the park itself. Walking around the place you’ll encounter symbolic statues, fountains, initiation wells, tunnels, grottoes and a couple of lakes. The place had emanated a strange beauty, which took grotesque shapes at times and it would most certainly be quite an eerie place to walk after dark. It kind of reminded me of the setting of a Dario Argento’s films.

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I guess that the initiation well is the site’s most prestigious highlight. A fountain is situated in front of the entrance as if clumsily trying to hide it, while a small lowly lit tunnel guides the visitor to the well, which is better lit as the light of day bursts in through the opening on the top. The rest of the park hides various symbolisms related to the occult (we actually threw some water from the fountain of abundance on our bodies to cast away the ghost of summer heat and the specter of poverty – one was gone, still waiting for the other) and it could really be a much more exciting place to visit for someone who delves into this stuff. It made me think that the whole park is some sort of a map of Carvalho Monteiro’s mind: A place of charm, yet one of puzzlement and anxiety to lay hands on the mysteries of being.

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We were impressed by these benches which stood opposite each other depicting an analogy. A man and a couple of dogs on the one side, a woman and another couple of dogs on the other one. Don’t know if there’s some hidden meaning behind this though…

We had spent quite some time in Sintra and it was time to move to the coast. We were informed that we would have to return near the train station to catch the bus to Cabo da Roca, which meant that we would have to walk a bit more. After a long walk and a short break while awaiting to board the bus, we followed the lovely yet quite tiresome route to our destination. The place where the world comes to its end. At least that was the general belief until the 14th century and the scenery had played its own part on that issue.

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I personally expected the place to be more otherworldly but the vast crowds of visitors instantaneously crossed that secret hope of my mind. I guess we also contributed to some other poor visitor’s broken hope of a similar experience with our presence alone though. Nevertheless the crowd was gradually swept of our minds as the wind and the waves captured our souls reclaiming nature’s dominion over human beings. We were standing on the westernmost part of Europe facing the Atlantic ocean over a high cliff. Nothing but huge waves laid between us and the lands west of that place where the sky seemed to prolong the sea to infinity. This was truthfully the place where the land ends and the sea begins, as the inscription on the sites monument declared. The place emanated its unique atmosphere as there were not many shops nearby, only a lighthouse, a coffee shop and a small gift shop. Enchanted by the dramatic landscape I even suggested to Catherine that we should visit the nearby Praia da Ursa, but she objected noticing that there was a great risk of losing the last bus to Cascais and remain stranded on the world’s end all night. I was willing to take our chances but she wisely wasn’t.

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My frustration turned to a feeling of sparing joy, as I noticed a stand of books with four large letters placed on it. F – R – E – E. Free! Books are to me what cheese is to mice (come to think about it mice also eat books) so I got near grabbed one, realized it was about religion, left it, eager to get my hands on another one and then I dishearteningly noticed that every single book was the same edition of a Jehova’s witnesses’ booklet published in different languages. It was then that I noticed the kind stranger sitting nearby, gazing happily at me, maybe the only person on earth who willingly laid his hands on a proselytizing manual to read. It was too late for me to run and I was quite embarrassed to admit that I accidentally showed any interest on these books. It wouldn’t sound too good:

“Sorry mate! I thought you were displaying something interesting”

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We left the place after a while, as the bus to Cascais arrived and in my heart I was still carrying my grievance for not visiting that beach, while in my hands I was holding a lame conversion tool to a Christian heresy. The latter, I got rid of at a litter bin in Cascais. The former remains to this day.

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We reached Cascais where we decided to walk around town for a while. There’s a lovely trail leading to Boca do inferno, but we wouldn’t walk that far as Catherine was tired, so we casually strolled around the city for a while. Cascais is a beautiful city and there’s a large beach right in front of it, which seemed kind of fun but not near my idea of a great beach as it was too crowded. Seemed like a good place for socializing though. The path leading outside of the city was very appealing as it follows the shore enables view to the vastness of the Atlantic. We even spotted another beach, a better one that seemed like a river as the sea appeared to be entering a narrow inland passage, but the time for strolling had to come to an end. It had been a very tiresome day and it was about time we had something to eat and a drink or two.

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As the train to Lisbon took us all the way back to Cais do Sodre, we didn’t bother to look for any other options. The kiosks sold food. We were hungry. It looked great. We are never hasty when it comes to food though, so after spotting a canteen that sold some sort of codfish croquettes, we bought some as an appetizer and it was a very tasty choice. The main course was provided by a nearby kiosk that specialized on sandwiches and that also went well. We skipped desert though and proceeded straight to drinking, as we revisited the place we enjoyed our drinks the night before, to enjoy some cocktails, music and a lovely Portuguese evening.

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First glimpse of splendid Lisbon

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The Lisbon Oceanarium proved to be a perfect kickoff on our exploration of the Portuguese capital, but we were also eager to view the more characteristic sites of the city. Therefor, after a small break for snacks and refreshments, we reached the metro station once more and found ourselves at Rossio, one of the city’s central squares and one with a very elegant pavement, distinctive of Portuguese public art, that resembled ocean waves, typical of a seafaring nation.

Would you like to compare our experience in Lisbon with what we had originally planned for our stay? Then check our initial itinerary here.

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Walking around the place for a while, we stumbled upon Mundo fantastico da sardinha Portuguesa, a shop strictly committed to the declaration of the glorious Portuguese canned sardine, as the name suggests. The shop was super fun, as it emulated the vibe of a circus, while its sole product is – you guessed it – canned sardines. They are placed in cans marked in dates ranging from the early 20th century to the present and each year has its own tonality, which creates a phantasmagoria of color, contributing to the final result along with the shop’s own soundtrack. The sardine can price is a bit salty though…

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Later we run into Santa Justa lift, the only elevator still remaining on the city streets. As Lisbon is built on rather high hills, getting from the lower streets of the city to the higher ones was a somewhat bothersome task. So, in the beginning of the 20th century this elevator was constructed as part of a plan that would moderate the problem, which also included some funicular railways like elevador da Gloria and elevador da Bica. The top of the elevator allows some great views of the lower city and will get you behind the Carmo convent.

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We opted to walk around the city for a bit more though and our stroll continued until we reached Bertrand bookstore, the world’s oldest one still active. Since I have made some small progress in Portuguese over the past months, I was able to comprehend book titles and reviews, so we spend some time there looking for books. Finally, I acquired a copy of the Lusiads, but our homage to Portuguese literature wasn’t over yet. A few steps away from Bertrand lies a very special Café.  It is called A Brasileira, it stands there from the 19th century and it has been a meeting place of many esteemed Portuguese intellectuals, including Fernando Pessoa, whose bronze statue sits patiently on the writer’s usual table, inviting tourists to sit down and take a picture with him. We joined the table next to the man (Oh, my God! Don’t look! Fernando Pessoa is enjoying his coffee right beside you!) and also had a shot taken before advancing higher on the city hills.

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After admiring the view of Rio Tejo, as it could be seen through the narrow streets that would go all the way downhill to its shore, we finally reached the entrance of the majestic ruins of Carmo convent. The place was built in late 14th century and simply judging from its dimensions one can easily figure out what an important religious building it was. However during the 1755 earthquake it was heavily damaged and is now housing a museum. The disaster spawned a wave of controversy throughout the continent, as people would wander how God would allow nation, so devoted to Christianity suffer such a tragedy.

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Walking around the ruined temple it becomes evident that the thought would have crossed any believer’s mind. There’s a very interesting museum on the site, housing artifacts from different periods of Portuguese history, among them some artifacts of Visigoth origin and some Royal burials, but the most astonishing relic in display were the couple of Incan mummies. I was surprised to see them in Lisbon, since Peru was colonized by Spain, but here they sat, a boy and a girl peacefully enduring as eons went by and tourists were astonished to come across them in a ruined convent so far from their home.

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Leaving the convent we hanged around on the small square that laid in front of it and enjoyed a beer and a couple of pasteis de nata from a canteen. It was about time have a meal though and we left the convent to return near Rossio square, where we found a used books store, which I naturally had to visit. Five minutes and a couple of books later, we were back on the streets looking for a place to eat. Since we couldn’t decide what to eat we wasted some time walking from one street to another, but eventually, we found a place, where we enjoyed a decent meal, putting an end to this days sightseeing and getting ready for some fun.

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Instead of staying near Rossio, we chose to return to Cais do Sodre, as Catherine had spotted some kiosks upon our arrival the night before. It turned out to be an exceptional choice, albeit a bit touristy, as this part of town has become a trendy neighborhood, where you can find many restaurants and night clubs. We marched to the kiosks by the riverside, where we took some shots of the statue of Christ the King, that stood on the opposite shore of Tejo and the magnificent 25th of April bridge that laid under its feet. After weighing our options for a while, we spotted a small place where cocktails were served, while some street musicians acted as the spot’s entertainers. It was a great way to have some fun after a rather tiresome day, that started with a long visit at the Oceanarium and an equally lengthy walk among the city’s historical sites. During the following day, we would take a break from Lisbon in order to visit Sintra and the Ocean, but although that would be a challenging affair to cope with, we didn’t feel in need of a rest.

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A first taste of Portugal – There’s something fishy about Lisbon

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Portugal was the country I was more anxious to visit during this trip and Lisbon proved to be a great travel destination, although it was similar to Greece in some ways, that at times we felt as if we had never left home. The climate was comparable to my hometown (extremely humid and hot during the summer days we spent there), people partying  or simply hanging around with friends late at night, even the fondness of sardines (well,  Lisbon takes it one step further, as we don’t have any shops devoted strictly to canned sardines, although we do have a two day fiesta about this yummy fish).

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As we arrived late at night, we simply got to the metro and reached Cais do Sodre, our home for the weekend, which actually proved to be a great choice. We had some trouble locating our hostel, but in the end we settled in and tried to rest in order to make a fresh start during this leg of our itinerary as our first stop tomorrow would be the Oceanário de Lisboa.

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Taking advantage of the metro, we reached the great park where our destination is located and were shocked to find a huge crowd lining up for tickets. Thankfully, we had booked ours online, therefor we skipped the extensive line of people gathered patiently by the entrance and we rushed in eagerly awaiting for this experience to begin.

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We crossed an elevated aisle, listening to recorded sounds of the sea, whales, seagulls among the ones we could discern, but some of unknown origin to us as well, before advancing to the main tank, just to be temporarily frustrated by the crowd surrounding it. It made sense though, as the large crowd awaiting to get a hold of a ticket, was a precursor of what would go on inside. Of course, after a while we managed to figure out how to move inside the crowded place (hint: it takes some gentle nudging, no I wouldn’t know anything about the bodies floating in the shark tank) and truly had a great time, while learning about the oceans and the marine life.

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The main tank offered the chance to view the oceanarium’s collection from various angles and we enjoyed the serene movements of sharks, rays and other exhibits, before turning our attention towards the smaller habitats. We were mesmerized by the penguins, which seemed to stand perfectly still, as if they were freeze-dried or something, yet their elegance once they would dive in the cold water tank left us speechless. They would move like rockets and our eyes could hardly follow their motion.

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Those little guys had their names tagged on this board, which we found super cute, why would anyone call a penguin Oliver Twist though, eludes me.

We carried on strolling through the place admiring the rays, which seemed to be floating as part of a bizarre dream, I mean, they would simply hovering peacefully around their tank, yet they’d emit a sense as if something was about to happen, giving the impression that they are the keepers of a secret that would soon be revealed and something strange would occur as they would go on with their magnificent yet creepy dance.

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The sea otters were of a more playful character and quickly cheered up everyone that placed their eyes upon them, while the tropical habitat offered us a chance to experience a small scale model of the rain-forest. I must say, I expected the place to be like some sort of aquatic zoo, but we were pleasantly surprised, as it was a lot more than that, as it became evident that this place aims to inform its visitors about the planet’s marine ecosystems and it takes this mission seriously, while at the same time provides entertainment to all ages (They even offer the chance to spend the night by the main tank, or as they call it sleep with the sharks).

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Around the main tank, smaller ones present the biodiversity of the North Atlantic, the Antarctic coast, the Pacific and the Indian ocean. We enjoyed viewing the huge Antarctic cramps, as well as the immense sunfish and urchins and starfish, before returning to the sharks and rays once more. A huge octopus was practicing its own dance moves just a while before we left, satisfied that we had the chance to gain such valuable knowledge during this visit. We also spent some time around the kids area, which was simply awesome, providing the youngsters with the opportunity to get acquainted with the ocean and the food chain through play. We could have visited the temporary exhibition as well, which seemed rather interesting, but we were feeling pretty tired (your ticket entitles you to visit the place as many times as you wish during the day though), while we had to see more of downtown Lisbon before running out of time, let alone we were also a bit hungry. Therefor, we made a small stopover at the gift shop and waived the Oceanarium goodbye, before a brief stop for snacks and refreshments, prior to our peregrination through the main attractions of the Portuguese capital…

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The Oceanario is part of a beautiful park, which seemed that it would make a great addition to our itinerary

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Science lives on the street

 

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We are back!

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Hey there! What a great adventure that was! This year’s project turned out to be tremendous and we had lots of fun, having the opportunity to admire sites in three countries as we moved in airplanes, metro, buses, trains, taxis, even camels. Of course given the limited amount of time at our disposal and the rather large sum of places we wished to visit, some places were left out of our itinerary, but that was expected, albeit sadly. We also had some tough luck regarding our equipment, as Catherine’s phone got a screen crack, her tablet broke and her camera had a minor malfunction that we managed to overcome a few seconds ago and succeeded in moving our photos in a hard drive (MY hard drive, so I guess they are safe from what ever curse has befallen my beloved girl’s electronic devices- and I have to say, I’m very glad I am not a cyborg).

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We encountered many people, hanged out with a few, chatted in some Portuguese in Lisbon, had some laughs with a wannabe gangsta crew on our way to Madrid, even got acquainted with the ambiguous tactics of strangers offering guiding instructions while in Marrakesh and also visited Barcelona after the tragedy on La Rampla, which added a bitter tone to our trip.

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We’ll add detailed descriptions of this year’s journey on the following posts over the next weeks, so, stay tuned…

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Planning our second day in Portugal – Sintra and the Atlantic shore

In order to get to Sintra, we’ll depart from Rossio train station (we’ll get there using the metro from Cais do Sodre to Rossio or Restaudores) and while there, we are definetely taking advantage of the 434 tourist bus, which will enable us to take a route from the train station, to the National Palace and then up to Pena Palace, the Moors castle and back to the train station. However, we are mostly interested in the Pena palace and Quinta do regaleira, while Monserrate palace and Queluz seem great as well. Furthermore, as we would like to spend some time on the beach and maybe also visit Cabo da Roca, visiting all these sites is truthfully an impossible task to accomplish. Let alone the tickets paid would be an important blow on our budget, while I know for sure that we cannot keep our interest constantly elevated after continuously visiting one site after the other.

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So, we’ll opt for a qualitative approach instead of a quantitative one and that means we must make difficult choices. Pena palace and Quinta da Regaleira seem to be a must see and although we might regret it, we’ll probably draw the line there. Provided everything goes according to plan, we are getting up rather early and hopefully we’ll be done with our tour by noon. Then it’s bus 403 to Cabo da Roca, where we’ll probably spent an hour till the bus returns to take us all the way to Cascais. It seems that this bus runs every half an hour between 11.00 and 18.00 and its route starting from Sintra station, passes through six stops before reaching Azoia chafariz and Campo da Roca stops. After that, the bus continues its journey through Malveira da Sera station to Cascais (detailed schedule and route here). Once there, we may visit Boca do inferno and finally catch a bus back to Lisbon.

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Or, we might as well skip Cabo da Roca, if we are too tired, and try to visit one of the beaches near the area. We’ve searched for a while and we have come to a small list to choose from and the way we see it, Rio Tejo divides the beaches near Lisbon to Southern and  Northern ones. Since we are visiting Sintra, the beaches up North seem to be the most convenient choice and that’s where we’ll enjoy the Portuguese sea and sun.
This photo of Praia da ursa is courtesy of TripAdvisor

Praia da Ursa and Praia da Aroeira seem to be some good options near Cabo da Roca. However, although Praia da Ursa seems great, it takes some effort to get there (even if you take the left path, as everyone suggests). Aroeira beach seems to be a challenge to get to as well.

This photo of Adraga Beach is courtesy of TripAdvisor

Praia da Adraga beach is another option further north, along with Praia das Maçãs – bus 441 gets you there from Sintra – which seems to be the most easily accessible of these beaches. My heart is set to Ursa though, but I can’t drag Catherine into this narrow, steep path.

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Our last choice between Sintra and Cascais is Guinco beach, situated 6km north of Cascais, but it seems it is mostly addressed to surfers and we’ll probably skip this one. Our other options North of Rio Tejo, include Tamariz beach in Estoril, São Pedro beach and Praia do Carcavelos. All of them are too close to Lisbon, so they will probably be very crowded, but they are the most convenient to get to.

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Tamariz seems to be a lovely choice,  as it includes a medieval styled building, constructed in the 19th century and I think it’s where Catherine might enjoy the sea more, as the place is easily accessible and may have warmer waters than the sea north of Cascais. There seem to be lots of places to go and enjoy a snack or a drink as well, so our stay around the place can be a boring comfortable affair.

Carcavelos beach is a 20 minute train ride away from Lisbon and what applies to Tamariz, probably applies here as well. Many options for a snack or some coffee, lots of people (probably more than Tamariz) and some guaranteed quality time on the beach, under the bright sun (pretty much what we can do around home though). I am a bit concerned over the water quality, since this beach is so close to Lisbon, but we won’t let that worry us. Another option is plan B, which we won’t follow probably, since it involves hitting the praias south of Rio Tejo, but, since some research is done, I’ll post these options here:

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Costa da Caparica seems to be a nice option across Lisbon, as it is a more than 30 km long sandy beach, easily accessible by bus or a combination of ferry and bus, while one can make use of a small mini train to reach the more distant sections of this beach.

 
This photo of Borda D’Agua is courtesy of TripAdvisor

Praia Morena is one of these distant sections and i guess you can find a useful guide to the place here, while another interesting place could be Da Cabana do Pescador (the fisherman’s hut). The thing about a 30km beach is that we do have one just in our backyard, (well, not literally, but still, it’s only a ten minute drive there), so we would rather experience something entirely different.

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Praia do Meco is another beach, further south, near Sesimbra, 40 km away from Lisbon (some info can be found here), but the longer the distance, the least becomes the possibility we’ll visit places like this one or Praia do ouro.

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Finally, Portinho da Arrabida seems to be the prettiest option south of Lisbon, at least according to our standards, but it seems as if it will be a real hassle to get to, since it seems that we’ll have to travel to Setubal first, before finding some means of transport there. I won’t even discuss the option of visiting Praia do Troia, besides, the last time Greeks visited Troia (Troy) things got out of hand and eventually both sides suffered greatly. We won’t go to Praia do Troia, but we’ll bear them a gift instead…

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Our back yard, guess in Portuguese it would be called Praia do nosso patio posterior

In conclusion, I kind of feel that we are obliged to come to terms with the fact that our time is limited, while our desire to visit many places knows no boundaries. That means that we must lessen our desires and it obviously feels like a bitter defeat since reason suggests that in order to enjoy a country, you must divide the precious time at your disposal wisely. We know for sure that our bodies will be grateful if we don’t push them too hard, yet, our minds might hold a grudge. No matter where we go in Portugal though, we cannot have any regrets, as we’ll enjoy a country that seems to be stunning and is the place I mostly long to discover during this trip (Catherine eagerly anticipates to view Morocco). Still, we will also be having another day to spend in Lisbon, before departing on a night train to Madrid and we’ll make use of that time in order to relax and visit any place we missed during the previous days of our stay.

 

 

Dealing with our forthcoming first taste of Lisbon

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This post is mostly focused on an attempt to make up for being so idle as bloggers over the past month or so. It is some sort of note regarding our trip next month and a way to put the things we plan to do in some sort of order. We are both working long hours, but since I do all of the writing, I’ve been trying desperately and – obviously – with inadequate success, to find some precious time to keep you informed.This photo of Lisbon Oceanarium is courtesy of TripAdvisor

 

Anyways, so far we have booked almost everything that was a necessity and our itinerary will start once we land on Lisbon. We do not own any of the pictures in this post, hopefully we’ll get plenty of our own pics, once we are back home, but for now these will have to suffice, don’t get me wrong, they are great, but I prefer the ones Catherine shoots. We’ll be arriving near midnight, so all we can do during our first day is get acquainted with the city’s metro and get all the way to Alameda station and then to Cais do Sodre, where we’ll catch a taxi to our hostel.

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Image via lisboando.com

After a good (hopefully) night’s rest, we’ll hold onto our freshly started relations with the metro and begin our second day at the Lisbon Oceanarium (Cabo Ruivo or Oriente stations are pretty close) and probably have a closer look at Vasco da Gama bridge while there, before getting acquainted with the man himself, as we are going to pay a visit to Jeronimo’s monastery where he is buried along other prominent Portuguese people, like the poet Luís Vaz de Camões.

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While in the area, we are going to visit Padrão dos descobrimentos and the Belem tower, the place that signified the dawn for many of the voyages undertaken by brave sailors of older times and also the place where many would set down their eyes on their homeland for a last time. We may also visit the nearby modern art exhibition of Berardo museum, since these places are all conveniently located cose to each other. That would bring our first leg of our exploration of the city to a break, before venturing forth to the next part, probably after some more rest while we’ll wait for the sun to abate its aggression.

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For our second part of our first attempts to get familiar with Lisbon, we may climb to Sao Jorge castle and visit the Cathedral and the ruins of the Convento da ordem do Carmo. This church is a remainder of the 1755 earthquake that destroyed the city and the spark that ignited the creation of some philosophical and literary works, among them Voltaire’s Candide and DeSade’s Justine, a mockery of Leibnitz’s view that this is the best of all possible worlds.

Next we will be visiting Bertrand, the oldest bookstore in Europe, where I intent to buy a couple of books in Portuguese (maybe Os Lusiadas or the anarchist banker or both, well… I certainly hope Catherine will be able to pull me out of my book infused state of trance once there). Afterwards, we’ll head to Sao Roque church and head to Miraduro Santa Catarina to enjoy the views of the city, before visiting a place to enjoy a beer or two.

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We’ll also ride one of the elevadores, probably the one most convenient for our routes.  Elevador de Santa Justa seems to be the most prominent among them, connecting rua do ouro (gold street?) to largo do carmo (Carmelite square? Large Carmelite?) and would seemingly be a good choice to reach cafe A Brasileira, where we could enjoy some coffee in the company of Fernando Pessoa’s statue. On the other hand elevador da Bica runs between largo Calhariz and Convento de Sao Pedro de Alcantara, while Ascensor da Gloria, connectsR. São Pedro de Alcântara, near S.Roque church to Praça dos Restauradores.

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Some things worth seeing are probably the two large bridges connecting both shores of Rio Tejo and the Christ the King statue, as well as the Calluste Gulbenkian museum, but we’ll have to see if time and stamina will be on our side during this effort, since we’ll leave this places on our bucket-list for our last day in Lisbon, alongside any other places we fail to visit during day 2,  since we are planning to spend day 3 near Sintra…