A few days back, we were offered a chance for a short trip to Edessa with some friends. We don’t usually bite for organized excursions since we prefer to make our own plans, but this one was a great deal and one wonderfully planned (couldn’t have done it better ourselves). Before reaching the city we could taste the cherry-scented atmosphere, since cherries are a favorite local product. Edessa is a small town in central Macedonia, near the border with the Republic of North Macedonia (a destination we keep telling ourselves we should visit soon) and is called the city of waters since its center is crossed by numerous streams and the local river Edesseos. The city’s gem is the magnificent 70 m long waterfall, Caranos, named after an ancient king, that leaves the city descending forcefully the valley below, where the ruins of the ancient city can be found.
The waterfall area was the place where the industrial area of the city was established at the start of the twentieth century, as many mills where constructed in order to exploit the force of water. These mills have now been turned to various museums that present an image of the pre-industrial Balcan peninsula, but can also please the eye of anyone interested in curiosities.
Our first stop was a very interesting one, as we visited an old mill, which had now been turned to an acquarium – terrarium. Several snakes – most of them constrictors to my understanding – were on display and we all had the chance to come face to face (through thick glass of course) with pythons, boas and even a couple of anacondas and tortoises. I believe that the people running the terrarium offer a great service to the community, as it seems that they collect the animals that many people get bored with and consequently wish to get rid of. Sadly it seems that lots of people think that it’s a cool idea to acquire a reptile as a pet, but as their pet gets older and increases in size they try to find ways to get rid of it. A few years back a small crocodile was located at a lake in Crete. Thankfully this terrarium offers an alternative as most of these animals would find it hard to survive if they were abandoned by their owners.
Our next stop was at a sesame mill – yes, it turns out that sesame is processed in mills – and we found ourselves at a very well preserved building. The lady in charge of the mill demonstrated the whole process of sesame grinding as the mill is operational and she explained everything. After she was done with that she explained the benefits of a Mediterranean diet (which I found boring, but it was a great thing to do for the large group of small kids that comprised the main part of our group). A great end to the tour was that we were served a local juice made of cherry and a Greek traditional power bar, called pasteli, made from sesame and honey.
Afterwards we visited another mill, the mill of flavors, where we were told about the water cycle. I have to say I didn’t pay much attention to that one, as I missed half of the tour since I was busy wandering on the small cobble-stoned paths outside this museum, taking a few photos. At the end of the tour we were offered water – which I desperately needed, yet didn’t get any, as it seems there were not enough bottles for everyone. Still it seems to me that this museum was a great experience for the young ones.
A few minutes after we left the mill area and walking through the old main street, we visited the old church of the city, a 14th century post-Byzantine basilica, which was originally dedicated to the Lord’s wisdom (Sofia) hence the temple’s original name Hagia-Sofia, like its famous counterpart in Constantinople. However now the temple is dedicated to the assumption, as according to the local legend the Ottoman sultan issued a law according to which all churches dedicated to the Lord’s wisdom had to be turned to mosques. So, the local bishop bribed the officials and convinced them that the church was dedicated to the assumption. I have limited knowledge on this historic period, but I’ve read once that many church name changes, signify a change in demographics, as newer inhabitants take over the old buildings and restore them.
What was most striking about this church though, was the capital of one of the columns. It depicts rams and eagles catching their prey and it was originally placed on a building much older than the temple, possibly a temple of the old gods. The column itself is also very beautiful as it is made of a red marble and all these different elements that consist this old metropolitan church, create a harmonious composition.
Last stop, before lunchtime was the city’s main attraction, the waterfall park. I had visited the place twice, but that was so many years ago, I think last time I was there I was about twelve years old or something. I remembered a few things like the small path behind the waterfall and the very small cave near it, but not much else. The place offers great views of the valley below, where the ruins of the ancient city can be visited (one more place on my bucket-list) and it’s a good place to hang around.
That was to be the last stop of our tour before lunch time, which was great (as is food mostly in Northern Greece). I also had a chance to visit another monument along with a friend, as Catherine was enjoying some ice cream. The “Byzantine” bridge called kioupri (from Turkish köprü=bridge), which can easily be reached if you follow the river upstream for about a kilometer. It’s situated in a shady park and it seems that there was a bridge since pre-Roman times on the spot and continued so till today. So, if you wish to cross a bridge that is supposed to have consisted part of the Via Egnatia, the road connecting Rome and Byzantium here’s your chance. We also had a chance to catch a glimpse of a water snake hiding in weed, stalking for some fish while there, before returning to our group for the way back home.
p.s. I know I haven’t been writing as often as I’d like for the past months, but I continue being very busy with other issues. We are still renovating, while I have to participate at a conference next week and furthermore we are not yet done with this year’s trip. So far we’ve booked our tickets and hotels, but we still have to take care of minor details. I’ll try and keep updating on that one over the next weeks.